Browse by:

Experience of a Lifetime: Sea Eagles in Lofoten Archipelago!

Gunnar Skjeseth deftly maneuvers his 11-meter high performance RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) through the rough swells out of the harbor at Svolvær, Norway and slows at a series of rock outcroppings just offshore across the bay. He looks up towards the rocky ledges and whistles. Nothing. He whistles again, then throws a herring to the gulls. When the gulls start screaming, he said, the eagles pay even better attention. I went out recently in a…

Perched on the Wild Edge of the World

In Norway’s historic Lofoten Archipelago village of Nusfjord, strips of codfish strung on poles near the harbor flap in the arctic wind like prayer flags. Here in the islands, cod caught during the run from the arctic’s Barents Sea to Lofoten spawning areas in late winter is still cold-air cured for “stockfish” in the old way, on long wooden racks out in the open, as it’s been done for more than a thousand years. And…