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Perched on the Wild Edge of the World

In Norway’s historic Lofoten Archipelago village of Nusfjord, strips of codfish strung on poles near the harbor flap in the arctic wind like prayer flags. Here in the islands, cod caught during the run from the arctic’s Barents Sea to Lofoten spawning areas in late winter is still cold-air cured for “stockfish” in the old way, on long wooden racks out in the open, as it’s been done for more than a thousand years. And…